Iran was once a popular travel destination for Westerners. Many people will be surprised to learn that travelers who still visit the country return safely after having had a fantastic time.
Yes, there have been demonstrations and, at the government level, hostile words, but the average Iranian you will meet on your travels is warm, open and very friendly. Iran is the birthplace of much of our culture and today still offers some amazing cultural and personal experiences.
Yes, you will need a visa, but for most nationalities, it can be obtained at the airport upon arrival. For those traveling on a UK or US passport, the requirement is that you must have booked a group tour or at least made your visa application through one of the local tour companies. Independent travel by people from countries other than the UK/USA. USA are possible for the brave.
Iran is well connected with a bus network and it is possible to travel by both train and plane. Little English is spoken outside of Tehran and Isfahan, so hiring a guide makes perfect sense. They are relatively cheap. That being said, taking a group trip has a lot to offer as well.
Iran is an Islamic country and has a strict dress code that visitors must follow. This is particularly difficult for women who are required to fully cover their heads, arms, and legs while in public. For men, long sleeves and pants are required. Westerners are welcome in most cities, but care should be taken in the very conservative religious cities of Qom and Mashhad.
Tehran has little to offer except the Grand Bazaar and the incredible Jewelry Museum, but this is made up for in the cities of Isfahan (also spelled Esfahan), Shiraz and Yazd.
Shiraz and Yazd are worth a day or more and the ruins of the ancient city of Persepolis, 70 kilometers from Shiraz, is one of the most spectacular ruins in the world. Shiraz has wonderful gardens and an interesting mosque with mirror tiles. Yazd has its winding lanes, wind towers and mud brick houses. This is the best place to explore Zoroastrian culture. Take a look at the impressive three-story-high Amir Chakhmaq complex, with its perfectly proportioned rows of decorated niches. If you have time, the Yazd Water Museum has a very interesting display of underground water channels called quanats.
Isfahan is a relatively compact city with most major attractions within walking distance. It is truly impressive and some say that it is the most beautiful city in the world. The main attractions – Imam Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace, Sheikh Lotf Alah Mosque and the entrance to the Grand Bazaar – are clustered around the huge Imam Square (Naghsh-j Jahan). Once a parade ground, polo field and horse racing track, the central area is now a water fountain and dozens of shops surround the square.
The construction of the Palace began in 1611. It is a fine example of Islamic architecture at its peak. Its splendor comes from the seven-color mosaics that cover the dome and the beautiful calligraphic inscriptions in various places. The front portal of the mosque is 27 meters high and is flanked by two 42-meter-high minarets. Together with the 52 meter high dome, the view of the mosque in the late afternoon with its tiles glistening in the afternoon sun, is a scene you will remember for a long time.
If you find the exterior impressive, the beauty of the interior will take your breath away. Stunning tiles, plasterwork and more calligraphy along with dramatic patterns adorn the ceiling. Standing under the center of the dome, you can experience the most amazing acoustic properties of the dome design.
On the left side of the Imam Mosque square is the majestic six-story Ali Qapu Palace. Built as a monumental gateway, it also served as the residence of the Shahs.
You’ll need a good guide to fully understand this building, but the highlight is undoubtedly the raised terrace with its 18 slender columns. The sight of the square for the Shah and his guests must have been a wonderful sight. Shah Abbas I and II reigned at the height of Persian culture.
On the other side of the square is the smaller Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, sometimes referred to as the Ladies’ Mosque because it may have been built to serve as a place of worship for the Shah’s harem. Built between 1602 and 1619 during the reign of Shah Abbas I, it is distinguished from the Imam Mosque by its pale tones and calm harmony. Colors change during the day from cream to pink at sunset. The arabesque patterns and floral designs on the outer panels are remarkable. The portal is an example of fine stalactite work with a rich concentration of blue and gold motifs. This honeycomb plaster forms small niches bracketed one above the other in geometric patterns, it is very pleasing to the eye. Once again, the interior is superb and the unusual design of the mihab is the best in Iran.
Flash photography is not allowed inside, so bring a tripod for your camera.
Entrance fees apply to all of the above. Several companies offer walking tours. Check them out as they may offer good value for money. Take water and have good walking shoes.
The gate of the Qeysarieh portal leads from the square directly to the Grand Bazaar. These are best visited in the morning, while trade is more dynamic. The variety, the smell, the color and the sounds of the bazaar will amaze you. Cheerful merchants love to display their wares. Negotiation is the way. Small items like hair-painted miniatures and hand-patterned tablecloths called qalamkar textiles are inexpensive and easy to transport, however merchants will pack and ship larger items. If you use a credit card, check the charges.
Take some time to try one of the rooftop tea houses. Taste the variety of teas while you sample a bubbly hubbly (smoking flavored tobacco through a hookah). Browse some of the shops and teahouses that have been converted into caravanserais. These are a throwback to the ancient Silk Road when trade was at its peak.
Other Isfahan attractions include the impressive Jamah Mosque dating back to 771, Chehelsotun Palace, and the Khaju and Si-o-Se-Pol bridges. Look at the bridges in the late afternoon or early evening when they are illuminated.
Money can be a problem in Iran. Very few ATMs accept Western cards. The local currency is the Rial, but sometimes the term tomans is used. A toman is 10 riyals. Always ask for or carry US dollars or euros instead. The best way to get local currency is to use private currency exchange offices (not black market resellers). A conversion table or calculator helps if you’re serious about shopping.
Isfahan has a variety of tourist hotels ranging from hostels to the luxurious Abbasi Hotel. Compare prices to get the best prices. This hotel has a variety of different room types and rates. It has a wonderful courtyard setting and is worth checking out.
So is Isfahan “half the word”? Well, you’ll have to go there yourself before you can decide.
We think it was when we passed on our great central trans-Asian journey written in the book Following the Silk Road by Marco Polo.