HOW I STARTED: I started making soap as a child helping my grandmother, who is now 98 years old. When I started making adult soap, I didn’t do it with the intention of selling. I just wanted to do something that was relaxing and enjoyable.

CHOOSE A METHOD AND A RECIPE: For my first batch, I chose a basic recipe that called for ingredients I could buy at my local grocery store. Looking around my kitchen, I found the necessary equipment that the recipe called for and thought, “Why invest in expensive supplies that I may never need again?” My rule was to keep it simple and cheap. The recipe called for 3 lbs. shortening, 1 lbs. coconut oil, 1 1/2 lbs. olive oil, 3/4 lbs. lye, 2 lbs. water, and 1 oz. fragrance oil (optional). I used Red Devil bleach from a local hardware store and fragrance oil from a craft store. I now buy my lye in bulk from the local chemical company.

EQUIPMENT I USED: A stainless steel stockpot, an 8-cup tempered glass measuring cup, a kitchen scale, a candy thermometer, wooden spoons, a spatula, a ramekin, and a stand mixer. You can use a wand to mix your soap, but I find a stand mixer much easier.

WEIGHING OF INGREDIENTS: Most ingredients can be measured or weighed in pounds. This is how I weighed my ingredients, but I still do. I put the empty measuring cup on the scale and noted that it weighed 3 pounds. In the measuring cup, I added the cold water until the scale read 5 lbs., then carefully added the lye until the scale read 5 3/4 lbs. I stirred the water until the lye was completely dissolved and let it cool. I then put the empty pot on the scale and noted that it weighed 2 pounds. In the pot I added shortening until the scale read 5 lbs., then added coconut oil until the scale read 6 lbs. Lastly, I added olive oil until the scale read 7 1/2 lbs. I then moved the pot to the stovetop and turned the burner to low to slowly melt the oils.

SOAP MOLD PREPARATION: For the first mold I used, I inserted the top of a box of photocopier paper into a kitchen trash bag, smoothing the trash bag inside the top of the inverted box and down the sides. Tape to keep clean and smooth.

MIX THE LYE WATER INTO THE OILS: Using the candy thermometer, I carefully monitored the temperatures of the lye water and oils until they both reached 105 degrees. Using a long-handled wooden spoon, I slowly stirred the oil while carefully pouring in the lye water using a slow, steady stream until the cup was empty. I poured the mixture into my bowl and set the speed to stir. Within a few minutes, the soap looked like a runny pudding. This is when fragrance oils should be added. When the soap reached a slightly thicker trace, I poured it into my prepared pan, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula. I placed cardboard on top of the soap, then added a couple of thick towels on top for insulation.

REMOVE THE SOAP AND CUT INTO BARS: The soap must remain covered for at least 24 hours to complete the saponification process. In other words, that the mixture turns into soap. After 24 hours, I laid out the solid slab of soap on a clean workbench and cut it into bars. There are many methods for cutting bars of soap, but for this basic recipe I used a ruler to score lines so that the bars of soap would be the same size and have straight edges when cut with a knife.

CURING SOAP: I placed the bars of soap on their ends in a box and put on a shelf to cure for two weeks. Note: If any type of milk is used in the soap, the curing time is not less than 3 weeks.

SOAP PACKAGING AND LABELING: There are many ways to package soap. I think it is a simple method. Using colored tissue paper, I wrapped the bars of soap as if it were a gift. Any dollar store carries tissue paper. For my cigar labels, I bought a durable stationary paper at an office supply store. I designed a label that had the name of the soap on the front, the ingredients on the top edge, and a small description of the soap on the back.

THE DECISION TO OPEN A BUSINESS: My friends and family pushed me to start a business. I contacted the Small Business Association for guidance. The first thing I had to do was apply for a fictitious name since I wasn’t going to use my own. After the name was approved, I applied for a tax identification number and a business license. I would recommend a business plan with a clear idea of ​​the direction you want your company to take and try to stay on track. I opened a business account at my bank, one that gave me a credit card. I also wanted a Logo, so I asked my sister to draw it for me. There are also many free logo programs on the Internet.

SPACE: Since we have 3 birds and my husband has allergies, I have designated a work area and storage space in my garage. My soap is kept in a spare room. I found that dollar stores and discount stores had better prices on storage bins than the sales at my local hardware or downtown super store. I also buy in bulk when I can to include organic oils in 5 gallon drums.

SOAP SELLING PLACES: I started with flea and farmer’s markets and then some craft shows. Overhead is usually more expensive at craft fairs, so I was picky. I joined an online craft site where I could display my soap for sale. I found three stores to carry my soap, one was on consignment and the other two sold wholesale. I developed my website using Yahoo Sitebuilder, which was very easy to use and offered excellent technical support.

A WORD OF CAUTION FOR PLACING SOAP ON CONSIGNMENT. I found that people never treat your products as their own. And when they’re on consignment, they stay yours until they’re sold. I spent a lot of time replacing soap that had become unsightly and dirty due to handling and/or dropping.

WHOLESALE AND SPECIAL ORDERS: Wholesale can provide a steady business. An agreement form is very important. Even if both parties seem to fully understand each other, a misunderstanding can occur. I write every detail discussed between me and my client in the agreement No detail is overlooked when I start to process the order. When I make a special order for soap with a fragrance that a customer has requested, I tell them up front that when the soap has finished curing, it may not smell exactly as they expected. I’ll do my best, but I can’t guarantee the scent. I give myself a realistic amount of time to process orders. I never give false delivery dates in the hope that I can make it. Wholesale and special orders must be paid for in advance. I can’t afford to get stuck with a big special order that nobody wants.

PRICES: Generally, wholesale prices are half the retail price. Of course if I’m wrapping and labeling etc my prices reflect those extras. There are all kinds of articles on the internet that give ideas and guidelines for pricing soap. I looked around my community to see what health food and specialty stores were selling their soap for. As with most handmade items, I will never get paid for all the work I put into making them. Thats the reality. In an article I read about the price of soap, when all aspects were added to the mix, a bar of soap cost almost $10.00. I don’t know about your area, but the economy in my area would not support that price. I would have plenty of nice smelling soap sitting around my soap room.

This is also why I do a small amount of soap when using a new fragrance. With the new soap fragrances, I give samples to my friends and family to use. If I get positive reviews then I may try them at local flea markets. If the soap sells well at the flea market, then I can put it in my inventory. I also make soap based on the Season. Spicy for Autumn, floral for Spring and Summer, etc.

Some soap makers have done very well, some have expanded their businesses to include soap and candle making supplies. I’m happy to do what I love and if I make a dime, well that’s just the icing on the cake.

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