These Fall 2012 Prêt-à-Porter collections were much more than just prêt-à-porter. They were an identity founded on strength and power. They were an embodiment of femininity, heroism and leadership. The garments constructed were that of the standout, self-sufficient businesswoman, and the sexy, smart, and fashion-conscious secretary. Several Fall 2012 collections establish a theme for the base of the commercial attractions: fierce, predatory, ancient, and epic. There was an air of inherent sophistication or baggy sweatshirt-turned-tycoon (Julien David) outlook. There was a warrior-inspired outfit or a seductress’s Renaissance ruffles. There was a contemporary Wonder Woman or an iconic ’80s pop supermodel. Color-wise, a consistency of whites, blacks, grays with jets of neon, gold, and burnt sienna reigned. In general, there was a feeling of solemnity and effervescence of the woman as ruler.
A general theme of the revived and modernized warrior was present, through examples founded on the Knights of the Renaissance, the Vikings, the Samurai and the Goddesses. All the ladies represented as Olympic athletes. Rick Owens implored masks cut like cloth armor, like a Gothic Revival or Middle Ages, as did Nicolas Andreas Taralis with his Orthodox-esc Monastery cloaks and shrouds. Gareth Pugh and Mugler juxtaposed Scandinavian fur tunics and loincloths with heavy ’80s-style shoulder pads and dress pants. Ann Dememulemeester created her own race of electric blue cockatoo hunters, and Acne reinserted the constrained but focused and powerful female samurai Obi. Jean-Paul Gaultier elevated the streets to the elite, with piercings, leather and metal and turned them into high fashion commercial attractions. Viktor and Rolf took a turn along with Carven and Rochas looking super feminine, in short skirts and scalloped satin. They absorbed a mix of Klimt’s gold and glittering trinkets along with Hieronymus Bosch’s hell and earth of fire and brimstone. These themes gave way to woman as a complete encapsulation of the world. The Tree of Life and Eve and the Earth. Viktor and Rolf gave flashes of black and gold and sienna and everything opulent and warm and seductive. All three gave a feel of the Tuscan Middle Ages and produced a base that the current secretary or Joan of Arciano can aspire to.
On the other side of this seriousness and bravery is today’s hilarious and comical superhero! 3.1 Phillip Lim started in Pre-Fall with Pow!’s and Kaboom!’s and Bam!’s and moved on to Ann Dello Russo’s neon power suits and all the primary colors of Fashion Week. Women represent themselves as subconscious cultural heroines. Junya Watanabe brought us in with an avant-garde superhero cultural heritage in a dirty, helmeted, laid-back way; With a variety of colorful flames and blonde hair models mixed with wools, velvets and tweeds, these superheroes were those of a more subdued and pervasive reality. The bottom line is that these most recent shows are definitely not club kid or disco wear like some of the trends seen from Londoners like Meadham Kirchoff, but rather a more classic and solemn hero-based ensemble.
There is a feeling of pride and conquest. There are veils and armor and capes and crowns. These women belong to the era of professional fashion: the golden goddess goes to work and rules an empire. Sex bomb turned secretary works with her charm and plaid and manipulates her boss. Biker Bourchra Jarrar meets 80s shoulders meets Harvard business girl meets the rest of the round table and battles her. These are the women of today. The neoclassical renaissance heroines of the workplace.
This season has given a nod to many old missteps and elevated the urban perspective to a more elegant premise. Karlie Kloss finally opened on the Anthony Vaccarello show and struck a chord with the modern business girl in all of us, and alternative style became a must in the workplace. Girls can now rip T-shirts and pair them with studded blazers and boots, hot pink cocktail dresses with flaming red hair, and oversized sweatshirts with pencil skirts and nose rings. All hail the new professionalism outlook for fall 2012.